Tucson German restaurant packed after rocky start
Once empty and struggling, Biergarten on Tucson's West Side is now packed nightly, drawing crowds with authentic German food, beer and Oktoberfest traditions.
A West Side restaurant that stood empty a few months ago is now packed nightly, as Biergarten's owners bring authentic German food, beer and Oktoberfest traditions to Tucson.
Most nights, guests are greeted by men in lederhosen and women in trachten, surrounded by the sounds of accordions and laughter and the smells of beer and bratwurst, all part of the experience created by owners Andre and Silke Linke.
Despite months of delays, the Linkes' efforts to turn the property into a traditional German biergarten have paid off, with full reservations most nights and walk-in patrons lucky to get a seat at the bar.
The Linkes' success stands out against a difficult year for Tucson's restaurant industry, which saw longtime spots like Dante's Fire, Tucson Tamale Market and Brother John’s Beer, Bourbon & BBQ close this summer.
“After three months, it turned out really, really well,” Andre Linke told Tucson Spotlight during a recent visit.
Silke Linke echoed his sentiments.
“The grand opening was really crazy,” she said.
Andre Linke said that before the restaurant opened, the couple were walking a knife's edge and nearly had to move back to Germany with their children.
Now, the restaurant is thriving.
“We started with seven employees, now we have 45 on the payroll,” Andre Linke said. “We had to hire people for jobs we weren't even aware of.”
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The only thing that was easy to come by at first was German beer, with Andre Linke saying he's currently the largest contributor to Tucson's German beer market.
“I was like, ‘Hey, we can have ten beers on tap.' German brands,” Andre said.
But the business was so popular in the days following its June opening that suppliers ran out before the restaurant could restock. Now, Biergarten sells the most Spaten beer in the state, according to the Munich-based brewery.
Andre Linke said selling so much German beer has created a domino effect, with alcohol retailers like Total Wine also selling more German beers after people in Tucson got a taste.
“All because of a small restaurant,” Silke Linke said.
Manager Tanja Robles describes the restaurant as a community.
“The kind of place you come home to,” Robles said.
Some of Biergarten's most frequent customers are retired or former military, many of whom were stationed in Germany when they were younger. For them, the restaurant offers a slice of nostalgia.
Robles described the Linkes as very passionate, calling Andre "a silent giant" and Silke "the heart, the engine and the wheels." She said the couple complements each other so well they can practically predict one another.

That same passion can be felt by customers, even first-timers April and Chris McDaniel.
“The food was phenomenal,” Chris McDaniel said. “Just seeing the atmosphere, the staff, the ambiance, the outfits, it seemed very traditional.”
April McDaniel echoed her husband's sentiments about the food.
“You have to try it,” she said. “If you like ethnic food like we do, you have to come out. It's just fun.”
Regular customer Kenneth, who lives nearby, gave it a similarly glowing review.
“We tried to get in many times before,” Kenneth said. “It was just so busy there was no way to get a table without a well-in-advance reservation.”
Saturday marked the start of the 191st Oktoberfest celebration, which includes more than a dozen days of celebrating German and Bavarian culture.
Andre Linke said the things people associate with Oktoberfest, including local beer, classic outfits, music and food, are all parts of German tradition that are accessible year-round. Oktoberfest, he said, is about putting them together in one place and celebrating them with friends and family for days on end.
Biergarten is holding its own Oktoberfest celebration from Oct. 3 to 18, featuring open-air seating, traditional German games and live music.
“All the food is very, very good, and I like the fact that a regular size beer is one liter. The music is fun, the way it looks is fun,” Kenneth said. “I was in the military and I got to experience some real German places, so it brings back some nice memories of days gone by.”
The restaurant's schedule of events is posted on Instagram at @biergarten_tucson.
Quentin Agnello is a University of Arizona alum and freelance journalist in Tucson. Contact him at qsagnello@gmail.com.
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